It’s early, yet the train station is already bustling with frantic commuters. A few tourists like me stand off to a side not quite sure what to do or where to go amongst the chaos within Rome’s Termini station. My sleepy eyes scan the departure boards but don’t see my destination, Assisi, listed. I wait twenty minutes for more to be added but still don’t see it. Instead there’s a train heading for Perugia with a departure time that matches my ticket. Somewhere in the back of my overtired mind, I remember that Perugia is close to Assisi --- at least I’m pretty sure it is. I decide to risk it and board the train. Worst case scenario, I either have to pay for a new ticket or get kicked off the train and get stranded somewhere in Italy. Thirty minutes into the ride, the train’s PA system assures me by listing Assisi as one of the stops.
After two hours and a quick nap on the train, I arrive at Assisi’s station. It’s filled with fellow commuters who are in from Rome for the day or on a spiritual pilgrimage to the town and we each buy our bus tickets for the 5 minute ride into the heart of historical Assisi. In my over excitement to start exploring, I get off the bus at the bottom of the town and head right, hoping to avoid the throng of tourists making their way to the Basilica of Saint Francis.
I have no real destination in mind but prefer to wander through the side streets heading up to try and get a good view of Assisi from above. Forty minutes later, I hadn’t quite realized how steep some of the streets were and I’m still working my way “up.” Two-thirds of the way, I stop to take in the view and am joined by fellow traveler. “It’s worth all the effort, huh?” she asks me.
I finally summit at the Rocca Maggiore, a little dehydrated as I didn’t think to buy water for the long walk up on this warm spring day, but the view from the top is very much worth the effort. It’s stunning. The grounds offer up an almost 360 degree view of Assisi and the surrounding Monte Subasio. The area feels far removed from the rest of the town and the quiet stillness is interrupted by the tolling of the bells at the Basilica of St. Francis alerting those to the 11 a.m. Eucharist. It’s not disruptive but instead adds to the serenity and offers the illusion of being in another time. I find it far to easy to sit and get lost in the ambiance. After sometime soaking in the sun and exploring the Rocca Maggiore I hustle back down to the heart of the town.
Late in the afternoon, I make my way towards the Basilica of St Francis of Assisi --- despite my hope to avoid the early morning rush in favor of a calmer quieter Basilica, the ground and lower chapel are packed. Inside it’s cool and the mummers of the devote ring through the chapel. I head below to see the Tomb of St Francis himself. Down below, Monks offers pilgrims the chance to write their prayers to St Francis. While not writing any prayers myself, I stop to watch others -- some are emotional while others happy and chatting -- admiring the beauty of their spirituality in this sacred place. The upper Basilica is much more quiet, with a few art students practicing their drawing skills. I spend an inordinate amount of time gazing at the frescoes lining the walls, each depicting a moment of St Francis life and taking in the beauty of where I am.
It’s easy to think that Assisi is doable in a day. The town is small enough and very walk able (if you don’t mind walking up lots of hills). If you have the determination you could easily hit all the major sites. But the truth is that would be a great disservice. There’s enough side streets to wander down, enough small shops to enter and frescoes on walls that it’s worth taking going slowly and allowing for extra days. The only regret I have is not spending the night and giving myself two fulls days to experience more.